Here's a comparison of Castor Oil vs. Ester-based bases in lipstick:


? Castor Oil

What it is: A natural vegetable oil high in ricinoleic acid
Used for: Shine, gloss, pigment dispersion, emolliency

Pros:

  • Excellent pigment wetting – helps disperse color evenly

  • High shine/gloss finish

  • Natural and biodegradable

  • Common in natural/clean beauty products

Cons:

  • Sticky feel (can be heavy or tacky)

  • Less stable (can oxidize over time)

  • Slower dry-down; may transfer more

  • May not provide long wear or high slip


? Ester-based Lipstick Base

What it is: Synthetic or semi-synthetic compounds (e.g., isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol) used to create smooth, emollient, often longer-lasting formulas

Pros:

  • Lightweight, non-greasy feel

  • Good pigment wetting and dispersion (varies by ester)

  • Smooth, non-sticky application

  • Better wear time and dry-down

  • Customizable feel (silky, creamy, matte, etc.)

Cons:

  • May require more careful formulation for stability

Best for: Matte or satin lipsticks, long-wear formulations, more modern or performance-focused products


Which is Better?

Depends on your goal:

GoalBetter Option
Natural formulationCastor oil
High glossSame
Long wearEster base
Lightweight, silky feelEster base
Matte or satin finishEster base